Build this DIY Burglar Alarm System using cheap off-the-shelf components. It has automatic Exit and Entry delays, a timed Bell Cut-off. Use it in your Home - Business Premises - Garage - Workshop - Shed etc. It has provision for the usual input devices (Magnetic-Reed contacts, Foil Tape, Movement Detectors, Pressure-mats).
Introduction
The prototype of the Transistor Alarm Four-Zone Module was built using only the Stripboard Layout as a guide. So - if you have faithfully reproduced that layout - you will have a working circuit.
Once you're satisfied that your layout is correct - and you have made a careful and thorough check of the underside of the board - it's time to power-up the circuit and test its operation. This is always an anxious moment. If you construct a lot of circuits - you might consider building the
Current Limiting Power Supply - or alternatively - you could add the Simple Current Limiter to your existing PSU. Both will let you set an upper limit on the amount of current supplied to your circuit - and so protect it from any serious damage.
Setup
In what follows - I've assumed that you've built and tested the Transistor Based Burglar Alarm - and that it's working properly. You can simulate the trigger-switches using short lengths of flexible multi-stranded wire - such as alarm cable. Join the normally-closed pairs together - but keep the pair connected to the normally-open terminals separate from one another. Make sure that Sw1 is in the "off" position - then connect the Four-Zone Module to the main board - as shown.
If You Find a Problem
If - in the course of the test - you find that something is not working properly, then a careful inspection of the relevant area of the circuit board should turn up the cause of the problem. If an LED is not lighting - check that it's connected the right way round. Where you've cut the board to size - look for small loose strands of copper left behind by the saw. Check the board for short-circuits caused by component leads touching each other. It can also happen that the stripboard itself is faulty. I have seen cases where the copper tracks have not been completely severed from one another during manufacture.
If you've built your circuit using the specified components - and you've followed the step-by-step construction guide described on the Support Page - then the chances are that any bug will be caused by something minor - a component connected the wrong way round - a missing or unwanted solder bridge - an incomplete cut in the track etc.
If you can't see anything obvious then adopt a systematic approach to faultfinding. Begin by double-checking that all of the cuts in the tracks have been made - that they are all in the right place - and that they sever the track completely. Use a magnifying glass. It only takes the smallest strand of copper to cause a problem. If you backlight the board during the examination - it makes them easier to spot.
When you're satisfied that the tracks have been severed in all the right places, check that you have made - and correctly placed - the three solder bridges. Mark each bridge with a felt-tip pen - or something similar - so that it can be easily identified later.
Next, carefully examine the full length of each track. Look for unwanted solder bridges. Your felt-tip markings will tell you which ones should be there - and help you identify any that shouldn't be there. Again, if you backlight the board during the examination - it makes potential problem areas easier to spot.
If all else fails and you still haven't found the cause of the problem - work your way through the assembly instructions on the Support Page. Check each individual component and link - to make sure that it's present and correctly positioned.
Print out the drawings and mark off the components as you go. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the diodes. Take your time and examine each individual component carefully.
SUGGESTIONS
